Tricotine

FREE PATTERN: Snow Hats for Kids

Because they grow so fast, I like ribbed projects for kids. 

For this winter, I chose to make each of my little ones a warm, thick and deep ribbed hat.  Because in our corner of the freezer world, we need very covering hats.  I couldn't find a pattern I like on the internet or in my knitting magazines or books, so I came up with my own pattern.  Here it is! 

A one skein, quick and easy project - 3 or 4 hours while watching TV for each hat, pompom non included - knitted all in the round - no seaming!

Yarn:  Wool Ease Thick & Quick - 1 skein.
I used color "charcoal" for my boy's hat and "Deep Rose" my girl's.
Needles: 16" circular # 10.5 US
Gauge: 7 sts x 10 rows = 2 inches
Sizing: 19.5 and (21.5) inches head circumference

Stitches:
Ribbing 2/2 = Row 1: K2, P2,...  Row 2: P2, K2,... Repeat these 2 rows.
Slide 1: Slide 1 stitch as if to Knit
ssk: Slide Slide Knit - Slide 2 stitches individually as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop

PATTERN:

Cast on 68 (76) stitches - 34 (38) stitches on each needle - and work in rib 2/2 for 10 (11) inches. Use a marker for the beginning of the round.

Next round - first decreasing round: K2, P2tog all around.

Next round: Work even, all stitches as they show - meaning K2, P1 all around.

Next round - second decreasing round: K1, ssk (as to knit) all around

Next round: Knit all stitches = 34 (38) stitches remain

Cut off yarn, leaving about 12 inches lengh, and with a yarn needle pass that strand through all the stitches - I like to do that 2 or 3 times.  Weave in ends.

Make a pompom (big or small to your preference) and sew it at the top of the hat.

* Pattern also available on Ravelry *

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ERRATUM: Special thanks to Marie Ellis for pointing a mistake in the pattern (correction in red). Only one circular needle is needed for this project, not two. I must have been knitting too many socks on two circulars lately... Sorry for any inconvenience this mistake might have caused.

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Snow Hats for Kids © Tricotine 2007 – All rights reserved - Reproducing or transmitting this pattern by any means for any purpose other than for personal use constitutes a violation of copyright law.
If you have any question or comment about this pattern, please contact me.

*~ More Designs here ~*

FREE PATTERN: High Insteap Ribbed Socks

Remember my Jaywalker unfortunate adventure a little while ago? 

Well, here is the sock I came up with, starting from the Jaywalker 2/2 ribbing cuff. Introducing my 28th pair of socks, the High Instep Ribbed Socks. Really stretchy for a perfect fit, they are made cuff down and on two circular needles.

The yarn has "spoken" in a quite odd way though.  Although both heels look identical, ribbed cuffs are different.  One colorfully swirls while the other one does not... Go figure...?!

[Click on photos to enlarge]

Yarn: Handpaints by Artsygal: Superwash Merino Sock (2 ply Fingering Weight), "Summer Vacation" colorway - 1 hank (410 yards).
Needles: 2 circulars #2US
Gauge: 18 stitches x 23 rows = 2 inches (5 centimeters)

Stitches:
Ribbing 2/2 = Row 1: K2, P2,...  Row 2: P2, K2,... Repeat these 2 rows.
Slide 1: Slide 1 stitch as if to Purl
ssk: Slide Slide Knit - Slide 2 stitches individually as if to knit, then knit them together through the back loop.

PATTERN:

Cast on 76 stitches - 38 on each needle - and work in rib 2/2 for 4 inches or the desired lengh for the cuff.

Heel flap is worked on 38 stitches.  Work back and forth as following:
Row 1 (RS): P2, repeat [K1, slide 1] to the last 2 stitches, P2
Row 2 (WS): K2, repeat [P1, slide 1] tot he last 2 stitches, K2
Repeat these two rows 21 times (42 ridges on the WS = 3 inches for me) or how many time needed to get the distance from the the middle of the ankle bone to the floor.

Turn heel:
Row 1: slide 1, K20, ssk, K1, turn.
Row 2: slide 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: slide 1, knit within 1 stitch of the gap, ssk, K1, turn
Row 4: slide 1, purl to within 1 stitch of the gap, P2tog, P1, turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches are worked. There are 22 stitches left.

Heel gussets:
Slide 1 stitch, K10 with the other needle.  Then, with the first needle, pick up 29 stitches along the heel flap, Place marker, work 18 stitches in rib 2/2, on the second needle work 20 stitches on rib 2/2, place marker, pick up 29 stitches on the other side of the heel flap, K11.

The beginning of the round is now in the middle of the heel.

First Round - Decrease row: K to 2 stitches before the marker, K2tog, slide marker, work stitches as they show (ribbing 2.2), on second needle work stitches as they show again, slide marker, ssk, K to the end of the row.

Next round - No decrease: Knit to marker, slide marker, work stitches as they show. On the other needle, work stitches as they show, slide marker, K to the end of the row.

Repeat these to rows until 38 stitches on each needle again.
Remove markers on the last row.

Foot:
Without changing needle, K the 19 stockinette stitches of the sole. Only 19 stitches (ribbing 2/2) remains on needle #1 and 57 stitches on needle #2. This will be the new beginning of each round - place an open marker. With needle #1 knit the 19 other ribbed stitches that are on needle #2. Needle #1 is now working the top of the foot (ribbing 2/2) and needle #2 is working the sole of the sock.

Work in pattern until 2 inches less than the desired lengh for the sock to be (I worked 31 rounds - counted from the marker - for a size 8 1/2)

Toe shape:
Row 1 - Decrease row: K1, ssk, Knit to the 3 last stitches of the row, K2tog, K1. On the other needle, ssk, Knit to the last 3 stitches of the row, K2 tog, K1.
Row 2 - No decrease:  Knit all around.
Repeat these 2 rows until 16 stitches on each needle remain. The decrease EVERY ROUND, until 12 stitches on each needle remain. 

Finishing: Kitchener stitch the stitches on each needle. Weavein all ends.

Make sister sock the same way.

* Pattern also available on Ravelry *

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High Instep Rib Socks © Tricotine 2007 – All rights reserved - Reproducing or transmitting this pattern by any means for any purpose other than for personal use constitutes a violation of copyright law.
If you have any question or comment about this pattern, please contact me.

*~ More Designs here ~*

As Mother as Daughter - FREE PATTERN

Post-Op project, All-Season Shell finished:

Now, what do you do when you recover from surgery, your Sweet Other Half is taking care of everything, and you are just sitting there for 6 days...  Mmmh?  Well, this is what I guiltlessly did...

Pattern: All-Season Shell
Yarn: Lionbrand Microspun, color Coffee, 3 skeins something
Needles: Straight #8US (5 mm)

I made my All-Season's front neckline a little deeper than it is instructed in the pattern and after finishing my top, I ended up with some yarn leftover. That Microspun yarn is so soft that I decided to make the same little top for my 2 year-old Sweetie.  But instead of knitting 2 separate pieces (front and back) I thought about a way to knit it in the round, and this is what I came up with:

FREE PATTERN: Toddler Tank Top (size 24 months)
~ Download PDF version ~

MATERIALS:
1 skein of Microspun
1 - 16 " circular and 3 straight needles, size #7 US (4.5mm)
1 stitch marker - 4 stitch holders
1 Darning Needle

Cast on 124 stitches, place marker and join,  making sure not to twist.
Work in 2/2 ribbing for 7 inches.

Work 58 stitches, Bind off 8 stitches, work 54 stitches, and Bind off 8 other stitches (remove marker) = 54 stitches for the front and 54 for the back. Switch to straight needles to work the front, leaving the back 54 stitches on the circular needle.

Shape front armholes:
(RS)K2, P1, P2tog, work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, P2 tog, P1, K2. Turn.
(WS) P2, K1, K2tog, work to last 5 stitches, K2tog, K1, P2 = 50 stitches.
Repeat these 2 rows once = 46 stitches.
Next row: K2, P1, P2tog, work to the end of the row.
Next row: P2, K1, K2tog, work to the end of the row, knitting the stitches as they show = 44 stitches.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times = 38 stitches left on the needle.

Shape front neck and right shoulder:
On the RS, work 14 stitches, bind off center 10 stitches, work in ribbing to the end of the row.  The last 14 worked stitches are the left shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, K2tog, K1, P2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, P1, P2tog, work to the end of the row = 12 stitches.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time = 10 stitches.
Work in ribbing 11 even rows. Slide onto a stitch holder, leaving a 2 or 3 feet tail.

Shape front neck and left shoulder:
Rejoin yarn.
Row 1 (WS): P2, K1, K2tog, work in ribbing to the end of the row.
Row 2 (RS): Work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, P2tog, P1, K2 = 12 stitches.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time = 10 stitches.
Work in ribbing 11 even rows. Slide onto a stitch holder.

Shape back armholes:
(WS)K2, P1, P2tog, work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, P2 tog, P1, K2. Turn.
(RS) P2, K1, K2tog, work to last 5 stitches, K2tog, K1, P2 = 50 stitches.
Repeat these 2 rows once = 46 stitches.
Next row (WS): K2, P1, P2tog, work to the end of the row.
Next row (RS): P2, K1, K2tog, work to the end of the row, knitting the stitches as they show = 44 stitches.
Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times = 38 stitches left on the needle.
Work 2 rows even.

Shape back neck and right shoulder:
Work 14 stitches, bind off center 10 stitches, work in ribbing to the end of the row.  The last 14 stitches worked are the left shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, K2tog, K1, P2.
Row 2 (RS): K2, P1, P2tog, work to the end of the row = 12 stitches.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time = 10 stitches.
Work in ribbing 9 rows even. Slide onto a stitch holder, leaving a 2 or 3 feet tail.

Shape back neck and left shoulder:
Rejoin yarn.
Row 1 (WS): P2, K1, K2tog, work in ribbing to the end of the row.
Row 2 (RS): Work in ribbing to last 5 stitches, P2tog, P1, K2 = 12 stitches.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time = 10 stitches.
Work in ribbing 9 rows even. Slide onto a stitch holder.

Finishing:
Join the shoulders using the 3 needles bind off method. Weave ends.

Happy Knitting! 

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Toddler Tank Top © Tricotine 2007 – All rights reserved - Reproducing or transmitting this pattern by any means for any purpose other than for personal use constitutes a violation of copyright law.
If you have any question or comment about this pattern, please contact me.

Seamless Bean Bag/Warm Pad/Pocket Warmers

What could it be simpler than that?  A little pouch filled with beans, and those kiddos who usually drool over elaborate computer games and/or popular toys of the moment, are having a grand time (and Mommy too BTW) throwing at each other and catching that insignificant little thing...

It doesn't take much yarn to make that great Destashing Project and - you are going to love that - Gauge does NOT matter AT ALL! 

Materials:

• Any Worsted Weight or bulky yarn of your choice. Here, I used Red Heart Super Saver Multicolor, color 0920 "Polo".
• 2 - 16" circulars needles, size #8US
• Dried beans - approximately ¾ cup.
• A thin nylon sock, tights, or pantyhose, 8 inches long
• Yarn needle

Now, everybody knows how to make a Bean Bag, right?  2 squares sewn together and there you go, right?   

Well, I don't really like seaming my knits, so I came up with the idea of a knitted-in-the-round Bean Bag.  Delightfully SEAMLESS! 

Instructions:

• Figure 8 cast on 40 stitches (20 stitches on each needle) and Knit even every round until the height equals the width (square shape).

• Fill the sock or tights with the beans. Make sure not to overfill it (beans should not be bursting out). When you have the right amount of beans in the tube, make a tight knot at the other end of the sock.
  

  [click on photos to enlarge]

• Using the yarn needle, close the bag in grafting (Kitchener stitch), maintaining the sock inside the bag. Weave end in.

Et voila! 

*** Note:  I have filled my Bean Bag with Pearl Barley instead of Beans, because I use it as a wrist pad as well, when I have been on the computer for too long.  I warm up my BB in the microwave for 10 seconds or so (depending on the power of your microwave) and it is a great relief for stiffy or painful wrist.

That Warm-Pad/Bean-Bag could also been applied on sore spots, when warmth therapy is helpful.  And when the pain is gone, it is still a Bean Bag to play with!   Although one bag per purpose is recommended ...

Another idea of utilisation:  One in each pocket of your parka or coat, those little warm pads will keep your hands cozy during your winter walks.

This is a free pattern. Make as many copies as you like, for personal use. However, you may not reproduce this pattern in any publication, nor can you sell it for profit without prior permission from the author. If you have any question or comment about this pattern, please contact the author at tricotime@yahoo.com.

My Irish Hiking Headband

Since I was asked for it and I don't mind to share, this is the pattern for the Headband I made to match my Irish Hiking Scarf.

Yarn: Lion Wool, color Winter White or any other color of your choice
Needles: Straight #8us

Irish Hiking Cable Pattern:
Row 1 (WS): K2, P2, K2, P6, K2, P2, K2
Row 2 (RS): K4, P2, K6, P2, K4
Row 3, 5 & 7:  As Row 1
Row 4 & 6:  As Row 2
Row 8 (RS): K4, P2, C6F, P2, K4

Instructions:

Provisional Cast On 18 stitches. (KnittingHelp.com Tutorial Video)

Work Rows 2 & 3 once and then Row 8 (Cabling row)

Then, repeat the 8 rows of the IH Cable Pattern for about 19 " or whatever fits around your head comfortably minus 1 inch, ending with Row 5.  I made 16 repeats for my Headband.

Join using Kitchener Stitch. (KnittingHelp.com Tutorial Video)

HINT: Measure the circumference of your head in the area you would wear a headband with a strand of yarn and then measure the yarn.

Phoebe

This is Phoebe, my daughter's stuffed Pig.  She was "adopted" from A.C. Moore few months ago and didn't come with any cloth. "No biggy", I thought to myself, "I will make her an outfit".

Well, easy said but not easy done... The thing is that Phoebe is oddly shaped and I couldn't find a pattern for a doll sweater that would fit her.  So, I decided to design one myself...

Phoebe is 17 inches long, has oversized shoulders and hips, a small chest but a large belly.  I wanted a sweater that would fit her unusual figure yet cutely.

This sweater is worked top down in one piece.

Materials:  Caron Simply Soft Yarn (about 1/2 skein) - 4 + 4 stitch markers (2 different color sets) - 29" circular needle #7US - set of double pointed needles #7US (or 2 16" circular needles) -  Crochet US G6/4.00mm - 3 buttons

Gauge: 9 sts x 13 rows = 2 inches square

Instructions:  Cast on 34 stitches.

Row 1: K6, place marker (pm), K7, pm, K2, pm, K7, pm, K6

Row 2 and every WS rows: K3, purl across, K3

Row 3: K5, Knit front and back of the next stitch (Kf&b), slide marker (sm), Kf&b, K5, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K6, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K5, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K5

Row 5: K1, yarn over (yo), Knit 2 stitches together (K2tog), K3, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K7, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K8, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K7, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K6

Row 7 (first increase row for shoulders): K7, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, *K1, Kf&b* to next marker, sm, Kf&b, K10, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K to next marker, sm, Kf&b, K7

There are 66 stitches at this point; 9 on each front, 17 for each sleeve and 14 for the back.

Row 9: K across, Kf&b fo the stich before and after each stitch marker = 74 stitches

Row 11 (second increase row for shoulders): K9, Kf&b, sm, *Kf&b, K1*, repeat from * to * to next marker, sm, Kf&b, K to 1 stitch before next marker, sm, *Kf&b, K1*, repeat from * to * to next marker, sm, Kf&b, K

There are now 98 stitches; 11 on each front, 29 for each sleeve and 18 in the back.

Row 13: Repeat Row 9 = 106 stitches

Row 15:  Repeat Row 9 = 114 sts

It is time now to start to increase for the belly.  You are going to need the 4 stitch markers different color than the 4 already on needles.

Row 17: K1, yo, K2tog, Kf&b of the stitch before and after each marker, K9, place marker (pm), Kf&b, K2, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K31 stitches of sleeve #1, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K2, Kf&b, pm, K14, pm, Kf&b, K2, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K31 stitches of sleeve #2, Kf&b, sm, Kf&b, K2, Kf&b, pm, K9 = 126 stitches

Row 19: K9, sm, Kf&b, K5, remove first color marker and put 35 stitches for sleeve #1 on spare yarn ro stich holder, remove marker, K5, Kf&b, sm, K to next marker, sm, Kf&b, K5, remove marker, put 35 stitches of sleeve #2 on spare yarn or stitch holder and join the body, remove marker, K5 Kf&b, sm, K5, Kf&b, sm, K9 = 60 stitches on needle now for the body.

Row 21: K9, sm, Kf&b, K12, Kf&b, sm, K14, sm, Kf&b, K12, Kf&b, sm, K9 = 64 stitches

Row 23: K to 1 stitch before marker, sm, Kf&b, K to 1stitch before next marker, Kf&b, sm, K14 stitches of the back, sm, Kf&b, K to 1 stitch before next marker, Kf&b, sm, K9 = 68 stitches

Row 25: Repeat Row 23 = 72 stitches

Row 27: Repeat Row 23 = 76 stitches

Row 29: Repeat Row 23, removing remaining markers.

Ruffle edge:

Row 31: K1, yo, K2tog, Kf&b every stitch until the 3 last stitches, K3 = 146 stitches

Row 32: K3, Purl back and front of every stitch until lat 3 stitches, K3 = 284 stitches

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: K3, P to last 3 stitches, K3

Row 35: Bind off in Knitting.

This is how your sweater should look by now (front & back)

[Click on photos to enlarge]

Sleeves:

Slide back the 35 stitches of sleeve #1 on double pointed needles (or 2  circular needles if you prefer this method), join and place a marker underarm. This will mark the beginning and end of each row.

Knit 11 rows in Stockinette Stitch, making decreases - K2tog the first 2 stitches and the last 2 stitches of row 4, 7 and 10 = 29 stitches.

Purl next row - Knit next row (twice) -  Purl next row and Bind off in knitting.

With the Crochet , make a row of Simple Crochet (sc) across the neckline.

Now, do you remember these booties I made a little while ago? 

Well, they fit Phoebe perfectly!

Fluffy Baby Blanket

I didn't make it with the socks for my MIL but I finished knitting the Fluffy Baby Blanket (as I named it) on the road and I weaved the ends in at the Motel, right in time for the Baby Shower!

I managed to take a photo before giving it away but I didn't think about measuring it... I can say that it was about large Bassinet size.

Anyway, the Mom-to-be was pleased with it (well, I guess she wouldn't have said otherwise anyway...) and she also liked the Baby Sweaters I gave her, especially this one.

Here are the instructions for the Fluffy Baby Blanket:

Yarn: Super Bulky Red Heart Baby Cloud. 2 balls Pink (CB), 2 balls White (CC) and 1 ball "Tutti Frutti" (CA)

Needles: 40" Circulars #13US (I used my wonderful addi TURBO that I bought a while ago to my favorite LYS)

With CA cast on 90 stitches. Do not join. Work back and forth.

Row 1-3: Knit. Cut CA.

With RS facing, join CB and K Row 1 across.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: [K2tog] 3 times, *[yo, K1] 6 times, [K2tog] 6 times; repeat from * to last 12 stitches; [yo, K1] 6 times, [K2tog] 3 times.
Row 4: With WS facing, Knit across.

Rows 5-19: With RS facing, repeat Rows 1-4 one more time, then Rep Rows 1, 2 and 3 once more. Cut CB.

Wit WS facing, join CA and K 3 rows. Cut CA.

With RS facing, join CC and repeat the "Feather and Fans" pattern (K 1-19) as instructed previously. Cut CC.

With WS facing, join CA and K across 3 rows. Cut CA.

Repeat these 2 color sections 3 more times (= 4 times)

Bind off in Knitting loosely the third row of CA, and WS facing.

Green Washcloths

I made a 6x6 inches Diagonal Washcloth (I like small clothes) using Worsted Weight 100% Cotton and needles #7US. This is my favorite mindless washcloth knitting ever! A perfect TV project!

Cast on 1 stitch and K3 in that stitch, knitting front and back of the stitch.

1st row and every odd row, K even across.
Next row and every even row, make on increase in the 1st and last stitch of the row, knitting front and back of the stitch, until 39 stitches on the needle (or more if you want a bigger cloth)

Then, K2tog at the beginning and at the end of every even row until 1 stitch remain on the needle.

Cast off, ET VOILA!!!

Same yarn same needles, I also made another Lacy Round Face Cloth. I just love that pattern and I needed to relax after that Geisha Sock challenging experience... ;D

My version of the Homespun Vest

As promised, here are the changes I made to the Homespun Vest, to make it one piece - size M.

Less than 2 skeins of Homespun yarn were used.

Read the previous posts about the Vest I made here and here.

[Click on the photo to enlarge]

With circular needles #9US, cast on 136 sts (70-2 for back + 35-1 for each side = 68+34+34) and work 5 rows in Seed Stitch.

Change to circ. #10US and work 4 in Seed st, Stockinette St. across & 4 Seed st. until piece measures 10 1/2"

Next row, place markers (PM): On RS, work 4 Seed St, K30, PM, K68, PM, K30, 4 Seed St.
Next Row, WS 4 Seed St, P across sliding Markers, 4 Seed St.

Those markers divide the 3 different pieces of the body of the vest, the back and each front.

Now, it is time to add 4 more markers for the increases and decreases of the waist shaping, preferably different color from the ones already on the work. I will refer to them as Red Markers.

Waist shaping:
Next row: Seeds 4, K18, K2tog, Place Red Marker, K11, slide marker, K11, Place Red Marker, ssk, K to next marker (44 sts), K2tog, Place Red Marker, K11, slide marker, K11, ssk, Place Red Marker, K18, 4 Seeds.

WS rows: 4 Seeds, P across - sliding markers, 4 Seeds.

Next row: 4 Seeds, K to within 2 sts first Red Marker, K2tog, Slide Marker, K to next Red Marker (= 22 sts), SM, ssk, K to within 2 sts next Red Marker, K2tog, slide Red Marker, K to next Red Marker (= 22 sts), SM, ssk, K to within 4 last sts, 4 Seeds.
The 22 stitches in between Markers remain untouched.

Next Row and all WS rows: 4 Seeds, P across, 4 Seeds.

Repeat these 2 rows 2 more times (= 4 times total) or until 120 sts remain on circ. needle.(= 16 decreases total)

Work even until pieces measure 7 inches form beg and then start increases.

Increases: Make 1 before and after each marker, 4 times.

WS rows: Work 4 Seeds, P across, 4 Seeds on WS.
The 22 stitches between markers remain untouched.
= back to 136 stitches on the needle now.

Work even until piece measures 9 inches from beg, ending after a RS row.
Remove Red markers.

Armholes: Seeds 4, P to within 3 sts to 1st marker, bind off 3 sts each side of first marker, P to within 3 sts to next marker, bind off 3 sts each side of marker, P to within last 4 sts, 4 Seeds.

Making the armhole of the Right Front of the Vest (as worn) first:
- Seed 4, K to end.
- Bind off 3 sts in Purling, P to last 4 sts, 4 seeds.
- Seed 4, K t owithin last 2 sts, K2tog.
- P, seed 4.
- 4 seeds, K, K2tog
- P across, 4 seeds.
5 times total = 23 stitches.

Work in pattern until piece measures 17 1/4 inches.
On WS: P12, Seed 11.
- 11 seeds, K12.
- P11, 12 seeds
- 13 seeds, K11
- P10, 13 seeds
- Bind off 8, 4 seeds, K11
- P10, seeds 5
- Seed 4, K2tog, K9
- P9, seeds 5
- Seed 4, K2tog, K8
- P9, Seed 4, K2tog, K7
- Seed4, K2tog, K6
- P7, Seed 4
= 11 stitches remain, 4 seeds and 7 K.

- Bind off 4, P2, 4 seeds
- Seed 4, K3
- Bind off 3, 4 seeds
- bind off all.

Work the Left Front the same way as the Right Front, reversing shaping.
No buttonholes.

Back:
- Knit across 62 stitches
- Bind off 3, P to the end
- Bind off 3, K to the end = 56 stitches
- P across
- K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times = 46 stitches remaining

- Work even until piece measures 18 1/2 inches.
- P14, 18 seeds, P14
- K14, 18 seeds, K14
- P13, 20 seeds, P13
- K13, 20 seeds, K13
- P12, 22 seeds, P12
With RS facing, K12, Bind off 22 sts for back neck, K12.
- Bind off 5 sts in P, P2, 4 seeds
- 4 seeds, K3
- Bind off 3 sts, in P, seed 4
- Bind off remaining 4 seeds

Join yarn and work the other side of the top back the same way, reversing neck shaping.

FINISHING:
Sew shoulders.
With 16 inches #9US circular needle, pick up 63 stitches around each armhole and work in Seed Stitch for 5 rounds.
Binf off loosely in Seeding.
Weave in ends.

Add a zipper, or frogs as a fermeture system or any other idea of your choice!

I have tried to be as accurate as can be in my instructions, but please, let me know if you notice any mistake or mistyping. Thanks!
Feel free also to ask any question you may have...

Heart Cloth revised

I know I am a little late for Valentine's Day this year, but I finally found a way to modify the Heart Cloth pattern, which was designed by Mary Marcontell - and that was on the Knitting on the Net's website initially.

If you remember - read my previous post here - after making that Cloth as instructed in the initial pattern, I realized that it was way too small for being used as a functional cloth - well to me anyway.  I like large cloths.

[Click on photo to enlarge]

ADDENDUM (01-20-2007):  Because Knitting on the Net has taken down the Heart Cloth pattern, my changes to the initial Heart Cloth pattern were not making any sense anymore... So, here are the complete instructions for the cloth.

Using straight needles #7 and Sugar'n Cream cotton (or any other worsted weight 100% cotton thread) - color Red, cast on 9 stitches.

Rows 1-3:  K1, yo, K across to center stitch, K3 in center stitch, K across until 1 loop remains on left needle, yo, K1, turn = 21 sts

Rows 4-25: K across to center stitch, K3 in center stitch, K across, turn.

Row 26: K2tog, K across to center stitch, K3 in center stitch, K across until 2 stitches remain on left needle, K2tog, turn.
Row 27: K across to center stitch, K3 in center stitch, K across, turn.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 times. There should be 36 stitches on each side of the central stitch.

Row 37, 38, 39 and 40: (K2tog) twice, K across to center stitch, K3 in center stitch, K across until 4 stitches remain on left needle, (K2tog) twice, turn.

Bind off in knitting loosely the reamining stitches.

My changes make a 9.5 X 8.5 inches cloth.

NOTA BENE: The K3 in center stitch is done in knitting front-back-front loop of the stitch. Here is a tutorial to how to do the Kfbl increase; just do the back loop one more time. Tip: Knitting that central stitch loosely helps.